The Old Swan, Madeley Heath: Alan Cookman's restaurant review

By acookman

I WAS buttonholed on licensed premises by a reader who said that first impressions would be more important as recession's arm-lock tightened.

Recognising that they will be judged more sternly than they were in the good times, he argued, shrewd restaurateurs would take extra care not to bite the hands they hoped to be feeding.

I could see where he was coming from, to use a phrase I dislike intensely.

Not so long ago, I rang up to book a table at a local restaurant and was made to feel like a cold caller flogging time share holidays in Slough.

The person at the other end spoke to me in the brusque manner of a man called to the phone while holding a winning hand at poker.

I don't know what his position was, but as the first point of contact with the paying public, he was as helpful as a rattlesnake in a bran tub.

We decided to give the venue a miss, on the grounds that the rest of the team might be as lousy at their jobs as the man who answered the phone.

Granted, this experience was exceptional, if not unique, and most places are careful to make the caller feel that entertaining him would be a privilege, a delight and an honour.

The average diner will forgive a lot for a bit of buttering up, although there was little to forgive at The Old Swan, where the welcome was warm and friendly without being positively suffocating.

As it happens, it was with a pang of regret that I booked Sunday lunch at The Old Swan, not because I'd received unfavourable reports – I'd received only positive comments from my multitude of spies – but because of the memorable Sunday afternoon we spent there under the previous management.

It was then a first-class Italian restaurant, and it was depressing to hear that crippling rent rises had driven the chef-patron and his wife out of the premises.

Thankfully, the "new Old Swan" is a worthy successor, handsomely and extensively refurbished, with the addition of an opulent conservatory, impressively furnished and decorated with style and taste.

Modern, chic and designed to please, the new bar and restaurant has quickly made its mark for its standards of service, presentation and cooking.

The Old Swan is open seven days a week, and the lunchtime and evening menus feature dishes that range from the hearty (a giant Yorkshire pudding filled with braised steak and onions is £7.95) to the deluxe (a prime chargrilled fillet steak costs £15.95).

On Sunday, mains included roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, roast pork or gammon, and vegetable lasagne (all for £6.95). But there were also specials such as rainbow trout stuffed with red pesto couscous (£10.95) and salmon in white wine and mushroom sauce (£8.95).

I can't think why, by the way, but I didn't notice much demand for the turkey with vegetable Provençal (£6.95).

The lemon chicken I chose was not, I have to say, the equal of the sublime lemon chicken I was once served on an Air France flight to Paris, but it was moist and tasty enough for me. And I commend the chef for his delicious leeks with white sauce.

Herself chose the roast beef (also £6.95) and did everything but write a poem about it. The meat was lean, tender and plentiful, thickly cut, and accompanied by a world-class Yorkshire pudding.

She'd started with Brie wedges with raspberry coulis, while I checked out a rather indifferent paté redeemed by some wonderful red onion marmalade (£3.95).

From the choice of desserts (all £3.50), Herself chose the blackcurrant cheesecake, and I settled for coffee and one of those fabulous continental biscuits they give you if you are really, really lucky.

Now what I am offered for absolutely the last portion of turkey with vegetable Provençal?