AN OPEN kitchen is always a reassuring sight. "Come on, take a

look," it proclaims.

"We've got nothing to hide, mate."

This demonstration of confidence is seldom more welcome than

on New Year's Day.

On the morning after the year before, it's as well to know

that the person doing the cooking is capable of focusing on the

job in hand.

When the kitchen's an open one, as it is at the Harecastle

Farm, a quick glance is all that's required to satisfy yourself

that the chef is fully alert and match-fit - as opposed to

lying in a heap having black coffee poured down his throat.

Although in recent years we've made a habit of eating out on

New Year's Day, we do recognise the danger that the restaurant

staff will be even more hungover than the clientele.

Most venues duly take the precaution of awarding themselves

a day off on January 1, but I'm glad to say that Beefeaters

like the Harecastle don't.

And on this occasion, it was obvious that the staff had

enjoyed a relatively abstemious Hogmanay.

If they had thick heads, it didn't show. You'd be looking at

them for a long time before you were reminded of the zombies in

Michael Jackson's Thriller video, although I can't say the same

for some of the customers.

The Harecastle Farm has changed little since we were last

here a few years ago, except for the replacement of the old

flagstones by modern carpeting and the addition of some rather

lurid artwork.

I can't say that I approve, although other features of the

17th century listed building, such as the ancient timbers and

antique fireplaces, have been preserved.

And the building itself, a solid stone Jacobean farmhouse,

is still a building of considerable character: Wuthering

Heights with onion rings.

It's been a Beefeater since 1988, although the brand has

been steadily evolving since the days when the onion ring was

king.

Grills remain the speciality, but expect some surprises if

you're a veteran of the prawn cocktail, steak and Black Forest

gateau dinner.

Checkout the monkfish and salmon skewers, with bacon, red

onion and pepper (£13.99); venison cutlets (£14.99); 8oz

sirloin steak and grilled lobster tail (£17.99); and, if you're

really obscenely flush, fillet steak and lobster tail is

£19.99.

If that sounds a bit rough on the post-festive pocket, fish

dishes include sea bass fillets (£11.99); grilled fillet of

salmon (£9.50), and red snapper (£10.95). There's also a good

choice of reasonably-priced salads, pasta and vegetarian dishes

- not to mention daytime and evening set meals, the former

offering three courses for £9.75, and the latter for

£11.95.

Starters are more tempting than they used to be: smoked

chicken, bacon, mango and strawberry salad (£4.45); mussels in

white wine (£4.99); lamb and mutton koftas (£3.99) etc.

My crayfish salad (£4.75), served with a grapefruit and

poppy seed dressing, and topped with crab in chive mayonnaise,

was sweet, light and tangy, and Herself's grilled sardine

fillets (£3.99) consisted of a brace of tasty sardine fillets

served on toasted rustic bread with a herby dressing and

salad.

After this, she had chicken breast stuffed with spinach and

cream cheese (£9.85), and wrapped in a slice of bacon that was

almost as thick as gammon. She thought this a bit surplus to

requirements, but the chicken and stuffing got top marks.

I'd ordered the minted loin of lamb (£11.99), three

deliciously sweet fillets of lean lamb, perfectly cooked and

served with dauphinoise potatoes and a selection of fresh

vegetables.

The meat was perfect, but the red wine and rosemary sauce

was a bit too sweet and thin for my liking.

For afters, Herself chose the white and dark chocolate

truffle cake (£4.25), served with cream and a compote of

berries.

"Absolutely delicious," she declared. "Easily the best

pudding of the year."

I had the cheese platter (£4.25), generous wedges of choice

stilton, brie and Cheddar with biscuits, chilled grapes and

celery.

By the way, should you be overcome with nostalgia for the

time you first entertained the bimbo of the moment to steak and

chips and a bottle of Beaujolais, rest assured that the onion

ring is not yet extinct. It's available as a side order for

£1.99.

This review was first published in Sentinel Sunday on

January 7, 2007.