The Dog & Doublet, Sandon: Alan Cookman restaurant review
I'VE always considered it bad form to check out a new venue before the paint has dried.
Protocol demands that a period of bedding-in be observed, if only to avoid getting sawdust in one's soup.
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I may once or twice have visited prematurely, but generally speaking I allow one calendar month to pass before I swoop.
So it was an interesting new experience to visit The Dog & Doublet during, rather than after, a refurb. I had no idea my old haunt was undergoing a facelift and several days' work remained before the job was finished.
We'd gone on spec on a Sunday afternoon, quite unprepared to find a work in progress.
Thankfully, part of that work involved removing the carvery and launching a considerably more interesting à la carte menu. Herself had suggested lunch at The Dog & Doublet because a carvery meal would work out cheaper in these difficult times.
Never having understood why the British enjoy queuing for their dinners, I went along with her suggestion with the heaviest of hearts.
So I was delighted to find the carvery gone and a change of emphasis in place, although the soft decor, bare blond wood, floor tiles and rough stone slabs remain, as does the striking glassed-in archway.
Just over 100 years old, the pub stands across the road from the gates of Sandon Hall, seat of the Earls of Harrowby, and still forms part of the estate. I seem to remember the original inn got its name from a murder which took place nearby. The victim's dog bought his master's bloody doublet to the pub and alerted the village to the crime.
If it had retrieved a different garment, the name could have been The Dog & Underpant or The Dog & Sock.
There are only four starters on the menu, but for £8.95 two can share a selection of Continental meats, marinated olives, focaccia bread and chutney. For £7.95, there's individual baked Camembert, assorted breads, marinated olives and red onion marmalade.
We both opted for a salad starter (£4 each), though, Herself choosing the prawn and cucumber salad with apple vinaigrette, while I preferred the warm potato and chorizo salad with mustard vinaigrette.
These were the kind of salad starters that ought to be served everywhere, but hardly ever are. My chorizo was plentiful and spicy, the new potatoes were very warm, the assorted leaves were fresh and perky, and the dressing was perfection.
"Snap" would more or less cover Herself's opinion of her own salad, although her actual word was "lovely". She used the same word to sum up her main course, too – chicken breast with roasted new potatoes and a tarragon and mushroom sauce (£8.95). Also lovely was the dish of veg, which included courgettes, mangetout, butternut squash, carrots, parsnips, swede and Heaven knows what else.
I'd chosen the pepper rump steak with chips, tomatoes and mushrooms (£9.95). It was a fine slab of beef, cooked the way it should be, and accompanied by a stack of railway sleeper chips as well as the grilled tomato and mushrooms.
Herself rounded things off with the chocolate torte with crème Anglaise (£4.50), a delicious confection, by all accounts, served with a couple of shortbread fingers.
I had the cheese platter with biscuits and fig relish (£5.50), and although I'd just about reached my limit, I couldn't resist the cranberry and Wensleydale, which was quite sublime.
By the time you read this, the refurb will be completed and the new-style Dog & Doublet will be flourishing, and well it deserves to.
I've noticed, incidentally, that there are other Dog & Doublets elsewhere. The poor dog must have been extremely unlucky in its choice of masters.
6 Comments
by clare, newcastle
Saturday, March 27 2010, 11:06PM
“I have been to The Dog and Doublet about 5 times each time coming away extremely satisfied and raved to friends about it.
Unfortunately tonight i have been very disappointed with not only the food but also the staff. Me my partner and 2 friends went for a meal we asked for a table for 4 and was greeted by a very unfriendly and sharp waitress. We were eventually taken to a table, we looked over the menu which had plenty to choose from.
The gentleman ordered the Sirloin steak with Diane sauce, i had chicken my friend cottage pie. After waiting 50 minutes (which i doin't mind waiting as good food is worth waiting for) the meals arrived the steaks were covered in a sauce that was tomato based, so the gentlemen questioned what the sauce was, the waiter responded "if the menu says diane thats what it is." well diane sauce is mushroom , onions, brandy and cream. The Waitress maybe acting manager then came over and said abruptly "i've heard you have a problem" then persisted to tell us the sauce is the chefs interpretation of diane sauce. Well some interpretation absolutely the opposite to what it shoud be more like! The one mushroom that was in 4 pieces was dried up and one of the staeks came raw/rare rather than medium. The waitress offered to change the meal however the gentlemen declined as after waiting 50 minutes we didnt want to wait another 50 minutes.
The Garlic ciabatta bread we ordered was actually 3 pieces of bread with garlic butter on.
After me and my friend had finished our meals and her partner managed to eat his steak, my partner simply couldn't eat his raw tomato covered steak so left the whole meal. We asked for the bill and could not believe they expected us to pay for the steak my partner left, surely out of good will that should have been knocked off the bill. Fair enough to pay for the other 3 meals we had eaten. Therefore we said we would not be paying for the unedable steak, the waitress/manager marched out after us raving she would be phoning the police saying we were walk outs, well here i must add i am 8 months pregnant and my friend 5 months pregnant with twins so there is no chance we were doing any kind of "runner" she followed us to our car causing a scene taking down our registration number.
I am just completely embarrassed that i chose to take my friends to the Dog and Doublet after the experience was absoulely ridiculous. So from now on instead of telling people how good it is i will be saying how bad it is and definately would never recommend anyone to go there.”
by Ali, Ashby de la Zouch
Tuesday, February 02 2010, 1:22AM
“Well my friend and l were heading out one sat night, and could not make up our minds where to go, he had this harebrain idea to look for this pub that he last visited 25yrs ago, well we thought it would be shut like most pubs these days, but no there it was. We went in and its the sort we like, wood, stone open fires etc. l had not eaten and was hungry so l decided on the camembert with assorted breads,olives and chutney, but alas it had gone pass the time but no the chef said it was ok. We sat talking and sharing the meal and before we knew it, it was very late, but we never felt hurried or that we had to leave, we would have stayed if we had known that they had rooms, another time perhaps hopefully. l would highly recommend this pub.food good and staff friendly.”
by Michelle, Staffordshire
Thursday, August 06 2009, 10:32AM
“My friend had her wedding at Sandon Hall recently and stayed at the Dog and Doublet Inn. This was the worst experience of her life and completely ruined her wedding. The rooms were dirty, cramped and disgusting, with the honeymoon room not being any better. We stayed to have several meals there and not one of them was worth the money. Great if you want dirty cutlery, unfriendly staff and even hairs in your food!
My advice - stall well clear!”
by John, Stafford
Friday, June 19 2009, 9:34PM
“My wife, friend, his wife, and I were all looking for a nice relaxing restaurant to go to off the beaten track; I can truly say that we found it and more in the Dog & Doublet.
We were impressed by the great ambience,being sat right in the front window, it seemed as though we were sitting in the garden,without the fuss of the wind getting in the way.
Not knowing what to expect; we had no preconception of how the food would bet, but we were very impressed with the quality of our meals. The portions were well sized, not to fill you too much, but enough to really enjoy the meal. I ordered the Mussels to start and the Pork as my main. Both were cooked to perfection. For desert, the ladies ordered Profiteroles which were fabulous.
The icing on the top was that the meal did not cost us an arm and a leg, being £12 for 2 courses, then another £4.50 for the desert.
All in all, I would strongly recommend it for a nice night out.”
by samantha, stoke on trent
Monday, March 23 2009, 2:19PM
“I work at the dog in doublet , and i can trully say that it is a lovely feel and a great atmosphere.
everyone is willing to make sure you have the best night out . the food is great and the service is excellant .. please come and have a look for yourself.”
by Hard Karen, In my lovely Impreza
Friday, March 06 2009, 12:25PM
“This place sounds really good - me and the Grrlz will be checking it out.”