Cookman visits The Crown & Anchor at Stone.

One of the most satisfying true stories I've heard about

restaurant kitchens concerns a steak deemed by the woman who

ordered it to be undercooked.

The wife of the proprietor of the smart South Cheshire

venue, she was entertaining a friend and was keen to

demonstrate her clout with the hapless staff.

So although the fillet steak was exactly as ordered, the

ghastly woman summoned the duty chef and told him to take it

away and grill another one.

"Certainly madam," he said, but when the swing doors closed

behind him, he picked up the steak and hurled it across the

room.

It hit the tiles above the sink with a resounding splat and

stayed put for a few seconds before slowly sliding down the

wall and into the sink.

He then fished the steak out of the dirty, soapy water and

grilled it to the customer's complete satisfaction.

I only bring this up, as it were, because I've always

thought that cooking a diner's idea of a perfect steak must be

a nightmare for kitchen personnel.

When a steak is sent back, it must be tempting to say "why

don't you cook it your bloody self."

Which, since you ask, is exactly what I did at The Crown

& Anchor, one of a growing number of venues where the Black

Rock Grill means you really can cook your own steak.

What happens is that they heat a slab of volcanic rock to

the required temperature and place it on your table together

with a slab of steak.

"Please remember that the rocks are EXTREMELY HOT and under

no circumstance should be touched," you are warned.

When advised not to touch something hot, I normally touch it

to see how hot it is.

I can't help it, it's a wonder I have any fingerprints. But

on this occasion, the granite was so self-evidently

scorchingly, blisteringly hot that I asked Herself to touch it

instead.

Just kidding, but I was careful to keep my fingers away from

the hot rock, which stays hot for 45 minutes, allowing you to

keep your chips warm as well as cooking the steak, tomatoes,

peppers, onions and mushroom.

There's a choice of three steaks, as well as vegetable

skewers (£8.95), chicken breast (£10.95) and fresh fish of the

day (£13.95). I ordered the fillet steak (£16.95) because I

thought it might be more of a challenge than the 8oz sirloin

(£12.95) or the 10oz ribeye (£14.95).

The fillet was so thick, that after turning it for some time

on the hot rock only the outside was showing signs of being

cooked. I also noticed that fibres of meat were adhering to the

rock, although oils are supposed to be surplus to

requirements.

My solution was to cut the fillet like exceptionally thick

slices of Chateaubriand and then cook each slice to my liking,

which is medium rare. Result: perfection.

I should say that I'd started with one of the day's

specials, a delicious duck and brandy pat?? (£4.24), while

Herself started with the tasty lamb kofta (£3.45) before

getting on the outside of a prawn and mushroom omelette

(£4.95).

She seemed not too anxious to cook her own steak, although I

did catch her casting envious glances at my personally created

Chateaubriand.

I finished with the agreeable cheese selection (£4.95), and

Herself had the citrus cheesecake with ice-cream.

The Crown & Anchor, which is the attractive

black-and-white thatched pub at the top of the High Street in

Stone, has a daily carvery (£5.95, or £7.25 with soup), as well

as a good choice of starters, mains and specials.

But if you're up for something a bit different, I do

recommend the Black Rock Grill. Just don't send your steak back

or demand a discount for cooking it yourself.

verdict

Name: The Crown & Anchor

Where: @Station Road, Stone. Tel 01785 813720

Open: Mon to Fri, 12 noon to 3pm and 6pm to 8.30pm;

Saturday, 12 noon to 8.30pm; Sunday, 12 noon to 6pm.

The Bill: starters x 2 ? £7.70; mains x 2 ? £21.90;

dessert x 2 ? £8.20; drinks ? £13.55